Serving Up Noodle Soup and Smiles at All Hours

Most people are asleep once midnight rolls around, but at Phở Tái, they’re still serving Vietnamese noodle soup late into the night – 4 a.m. to be exact.

Tucked inside a strip mall at 9205 South Tacoma Way, Phở Tái, has been a late-night hot spot for most of its decade-long operation. The no-frills eatery is full of customers at all hours of the day – business owners at lunch, families at dinner and an eclectic group in the wee hours of the morning.

Most come in groups, emphasizing the congenial atmosphere inside the restaurant, where regulars greet smiling, red-shirt clad waiters by name. Apparently, noodles are a bonding experience.

Myngoc Chase, one of Phở Tái’s managers, said that she believes their success comes from offering good, affordable meals at all hours. A medium bowl of pho – plenty for one person – is a mere $5.99.

“There aren’t a lot of places to go after you have drinks, or late,” said Chase, who has worked at Phở Tái for six years. “It can be 4 a.m., and people know it’s a good place.”

Another reason for their popularity is that the eatery is a staple for Vietnamese food. As pho got trendy in the last decade, restaurants popped up everywhere. But customers here have staying power. Some have been coming since Phở Tái was the new kid on the block.

Stop by on any given night and you may run into a jubilant group looking for a quick bite after a night at the bars; a half-dozen teenage couples dressed in prom attire; people grabbing “dinner” on their way home from working the night shift.   

And they’re all eating steaming bowls of noodle soup or plates of teriyaki chicken, gyoza and fried rice. Bubble teas in a rainbow of flavors grace the tables along with dishes of ice cream and pots of hot tea. There is no shortage of tasty options at Phở Tái, and watching each tray come out of the kitchen is an experience in itself.

Seeing customers having a good time is one of Chase’s favorite things about her job.

“It’s a mix of all ages,” she said. “I like the job and seeing the people – and being busy.”

What is Pho and what's the process to make it?

Pho (pronounced “fuh”) is a Vietnamese noodle soup served in a broth traditionally made of beef (or chicken) bones, oxtails, flank steak, onion and spices. It takes about seven hours to cook one 15-gallon pot.

“Our food is always fresh,” she said. “It takes many hours to make.”

 To be ready when they open at 9 a.m., the first pot is started the night before, and the kitchen staff continues making broth throughout the day. Chase maintained that they never run out, though, even during their busiest times, which are during lunch and late on Friday and Saturday nights.

The broth is served with mountains of rice noodles, onions and myriad meats and seafood. Among Phở Tái’s options are chicken, imitation crab, fish balls, raw beef, brisket, beef meatballs and tripe. For vegetarians, there are options featuring tofu, broccoli or just noodles.

The hot soup is served with a plate of bean sprouts, Thai basil, jalapeño peppers and lime wedges. Hosin and hot sauces are added at the diner’s discretion.

Said the most popular soup with Americans is Pho Ga (chicken), while Asians prefer Pho Nam Gan Sach (brisket, flank, tendon and tripe).

“Americans are scared to eat a lot of it, so they ask for chicken – or sometimes beef,” Chase joked. “Asians like the combinations – they’re used to eating it.”

Phở Tái also specializes in bubble tea, a sweet beverage containing fruit, milk and tapioca or jelly balls. The teas are shaken to mix the ingredients, creating a bubbly foam on the top that gives the drink its name. Among the flavors offered are strawberry –especially popular with children – coconut, pineapple, green tea, avocado and red bean.  

For those looking for something with a little less liquid, Phở Tái also serves noodle salad bowls, Vietnamese sandwiches, teriyaki, gyoza, fried rice and rice plates with grilled meats.

On Saturday night, Mae Cabusao of Lakewood sat at a table while her to-go order was being prepared.

“I like them – they have big servings,” she said, adding that it is convenient on the way home from work.

Cabusao recommended her order of salad, fried rice and, most importantly, blueberry bubble tea.

“It’s goooood,” she said with a laugh.